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@@wiredjared954 I get no heating at all. Flying these motors on 4S & 10” props is giving them a very easy life compared to the 6S & 9” props of the test data from BrotherHobby.

Honestly it's so much easier to get smooth footage these days - all you need to do is flash the latest version of Betaflight, select an appropriate preset & bolt on a recent(ish) GoPro with HyperSmooth. On the one hand it's great that the only challenge for getting smooth footage now is pilot skill, rather than build/tuning ability... but on the other hand I feel slightly bitter that people getting into the hobby today have things so much easier than we did back in 2016!

My setup isn't particularly ideal, as I'm using 3000mAh 21700 cells. You could get more capacity in lower weight going with 4000mAh 18650 cells. I fly for 30 minutes on 4S2P without pushing the cells at all, you should have absolutely no problem flying for 45-60 minutes with more suitable cells.

20x20mm 1.5mm wall, complete overkill but it’s what I had at the time.

@@CJDavies Carbon fiber plate thickness?

@@EmilTagyev-gt6wx 3mm for the base plates, 2mm for the top plate. Motor mounts are a combination of 2mm & 3mm.

Thanks

No, sorry. The consensus from people with far more knowledge/experience than me is that any difference is so small it’s simply not worth the bother of having to deal with two different types of prop.

@@CJDavies Thank you so much for your prompt reply.

I just inserted the bare wires. Depending on the exact thickness of your wire you may need to adjust the scale of the print slightly.

The black 3 blade props are the stock 7" ones the model comes with, the blue ones are 7" Gemfan Flash. I was using the stock props on the stock motors, but after one quick test flight with the new motors I decided to swap to the Gemfan. That 42A is the total, so 21A per motor. The ESCs are 40A.

It wasn’t so much a ‘mount’, but rather a piece of UNC all-thread screwed through a spare carbon top plate that I then strapped to the battery.

@@CJDavies thanks for your response, do you think my Protek25 can carry it 😊

These cells are rated 35A which would make the packs just over 10C. Look at lygte-info.dk for tests of cells & their current claims.

No, you won’t find BMS in any hobby batteries for drones, cars, etc. But when you charge the packs, you connect the small white balance connector to the charger so that it can read & balance the individual cells in the pack.

That’s just regular PVC electrical tape, my preferred brand is Tickitape

I used the appropriate preset from UAV Tech. I think this was before presets were built into the Betaflight Configurator so I just copied from the UAV Tech website.

I'm always slightly wary of mentioning parts/tools, because there are so many disingenuous 'reviews' on RUclips for undisclosed sponsored stuff! That said, this is the Sequre SQ-SW1 welder which I opted for because the maker of the kWeld was no longer shipping to the UK due to Brexit complications. I think once you are into the $200+ range of the kWeld, Malectrics, Sequre, etc. you should be good with whatever you buy, as long as you take the time to safely learn/practice the technique. If you haven't watched the follow up video I did about a year after this one I do recommend it - I addressed/improved a few things including the welder/battery, a better way to notch the strips, etc.

Noted, thanks @@CJDavies

It's interesting if you look at some of the other comments, there are people saying the exact opposite! There's a lot of debate online, but so much of it is either anecdotal or extrapolates from textbook figures which don't really take things like the duty cycle or airflow of flight packs into account. Regardless, these packs are still serving me fine so at least for my uses I can say that 0.2 was 'sufficient kill' 🙃

I have the throws way down at 40% with 50% expo. It’s been a long time since I used the Kopilot boards, I’m not sure what you mean by gain?

@@CJDavies Thanks for the throw and expo settings. I was starting at 80% and 60% expo. I heard the T1 Ranger is Twitchy without inav so I will turn down throws some more. You can adjust the amount of throw for stabilization on the kopilot. If it's too high the airplane will shake and crash. If it's too low it's as if it's not installed. I am going to reduce the kopilot gains too. If the weather is good then I'll maiden it this weekend.

@@jerrynormandin2892 Ah I see, so it's presumably the P-gain on the PID controller. I only used the Kopilot on larger models, but the first time I flew Ardupilot on a Zohd Drift I had very violent oscillations on the pitch axis because the default gains were just too high for such a small/light model. Luckily I had manual (no stabilization) mode on a switch!

An alarm bell? At what point?

Your best chance is probably AliExpress, but I don’t know if anybody will be selling spare parts as the frame is quite old now.

Thanks, I'll try@@CJDavies

I actually moved down to England last summer… but I’m right this moment up in Scotland trying to find a new place to live 🤣 I’m looking forward to having access to good flying spots again!

I was surprised too! I've since discovered that a suitable pair of snips/scissors makes the slotting process a lot less hassle than using the Dremel though.

Yes mine is at the very front of the hook, which requires ~45g of nose weight in front of the battery for my build. The diagram in the manual that shows the CG halfway back on the hook is completely wrong & I tore the elevator off the plane on my maiden flight when I tried it balanced there 😑

@CJ Davies Thanks..I severly crashed mine X2 trying to Maiden it..I was using ZOHD Kopilot (I have it in 4 other planes) and in Stabilization Mode it would pitch Straight Up 90 degrees with minor stick movement, then roll over and nose dive. I double checked Everything and no clue what was happening...Maybe a Bad Kopilot ?..Happy Flying !

@@dallasb7117 I used the Kopilot in a few builds, the ‘instruction manual’ definitely left a lot to be desired!

Just the props. Motors, ESCs, everything is all stock.

My spot welding certainly isn't perfect & as this video explains this was one of my very first attempts. However from a functional assessment it is definitely not 'terrible'. The welds are physically & electrically strong, impossible to remove from the cells without tearing the nickel - unlike many attempts I have seen with too low power welders where the welds look much cleaner but will break off the cells. I never claimed to be an expert & encouraged people to do their own research.

I actually much prefer how it flies with the 5x3 than the stock 3.8" props - changes in throttle just seem smoother with the larger props, the stock ones always felt a bit... manic?

What motors are you using with those flywoo props? I still have spare motors from my flywoo and thinking of using that motor when i build mine. Do you think its gonna ok?

@@noelskietv871 the stock t1 motors 1404,s I think.

@@dustinwilson492 Flywoo motors are 1404 2750kv. Will this motors generate enough power to the T1?

I would recommend reading through some of the discussions & tests on Endless Sphere, Esk8 News, etc. that try to compare different dimensions of nickel strip to different AWG of wire, rather than looking at the tables of hard 'limits' copied from engineering textbooks. The problem with the textbook figures is that they don't usually take dynamic load/duty cycle into account. Some textbooks will tell you that 14AWG copper wire can only handle 5.9A, but we know full well from our real world experience that at least in our RC applications that is a meaningless figure. Many people consider 0.2x10mm pure nickel to be roughly equivalent to 15AWG.

The NEC ( National Electrical Code) rates 15 awg copper at 24A. Never ever saw a rating like that. .2×10mm is going be holy short of 30. If he is banging 30 amps out fairly often, wo

BS Nothing adverse by reheating solder.

There aren't really any special considerations when soldering to nickel strip. Use the flat face of a small chisel tip with decent quality flux core lead solder. Be aware that there is plenty of fake lead solder being sold online, especially on Amazon/eBay/AliExpress, which is actually lead-free. Try to buy a recognised brand like Kester from a reputable stockist like Digi-Key. I run my iron fairly hot (380-420°C) for work like this, as I want to be in & out quickly.

There is a truly staggering number of outfits in China that will do small batch CFRP CNC work, many based in Shenzhen. I always recommend that people reach out to a few (you can find them on Alibaba, madeinchina, Instagram, etc. just send them a message or email) & compare their services & prices.